BARUNTSE EXPEDITION
BARUNTSE EXPEDITION
This is a true expedition to a less climbed, but amazingly beautiful mountain. Serious mountaineers will see Baruntse Peak (7129m/23,389ft) as another addition to their climbing logbook - despite the ice, fragile slopes, and dangers of climbing. This is part of the adrenalin rush of wanting to climb mountains. The higher the mountain the greater the rush!
Baruntse is located in the Khumbu region in the eastern region of Nepal with four peaks, four sides and is bordered by the Hunku Glacier in the south; in the east by the Barun Glacier and Imja Glacier in the northwest. From the peak, there are magnificent views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Mt. Lhotse.
There is more than one way to the top! The first route will start at Lukla via Mera La Pass (5800m) and across the Hunku are two different ways of trekking to the pinnacle. One is from Lukla through Mera La Pass (5800m) and Hunku Glacier and with a detour to Mera Peak (6476m) as a warm-up climb before tackling Baruntse Peak. The other route is along the Makalu trail and across the West Barun Glacier. There are 50-degree slopes which make it necessary to be roped - and ready, before attempting this climb. A hazard, such as a cornice needs to be approached with great caution and have been known to suddenly break off. (A cornice is a mass of snow deposited by the wind, often overhanging, and usually near a sharp terrain break such as a ridge).
To minimize the danger from altitude sickness we will allow ample to acclimatize and will not take any unnecessary risks. We will steadily trek and then climb to higher altitudes, starting off from Seto Pokhari (5035m) to Baruntse Base Camp (5400m) and higher to Camp 1 (6100m). We will have plenty of time at BBC to further acclimatize and prepare for the climb to the summit. We will spend the time at these higher altitudes taking short climbs higher and then returning to Base Camp. By the time we head of to the summit, we will be well and truly ready for the challenge ahead. We will check, and double-check, all equipment and be sure that everyone is mentally and physically well enough to attempt the climb to Baruntse Summit (7129m) that should take between seven and ten hours.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking has more than 40 years of experience in trekking and climbing these peaks. All their staff is professionals, licensed and experienced climbers.
ITINERARY
Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 2 : Rest day in Kathmandu & expedition briefing and preparation.
Day 3 : Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Chutanga (3050m)
Day 4 : Trek from Chutanga to Tuli Kharka (4100m) Via Zatrawa La Pass (4610m).
Day 5 : Trek from Tuli Kharka to Kothe (3700m).
Day 6 : Trek from Kothe to Thangnak (4,350m)
Day 7 : Trek from Thangnak to Khare (5,054m)
Day 8 : Acclimatization at Khare (rest day)
Day 9 : Trek from Khare to Khamedingma.
Day 10 : Trek from Khamedingma to Seto Pokhari (5,035m).
Day 11 : Trek from Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Basecamp (5,400m)
Day 12 : Day 12 to day 27 Climbing Period from Base Camp - Baruntse Summit (7129m) & return to Base Camp.
Day 28 : Trek from Baruntse Base Camp to Khamedingma.
Day 29 : Trek from Khamedingma to Thangnak
Day 30 : Trek from Thagnak to Chatrabu
Day 31 : Trek from Chatrabu to Lukla
Day 32 : Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Valley & transfer to the Hotel
Day 33 : Leisure day in Kathmandu City
Day 34 : Transfer to International Airport for final departure
SERVICES
Full Board Service Included
- Airport transportation as per your arrival date to join the Baruntse expedition
- 3-star category hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B plan
- Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu airfare as per the expedition itinerary.
- Baruntse summiteers climbing Sherpa (01 Sherpa: 02 climber’s ratio)
- Group climbing gears like rope, ice bar, etc for the Baruntse expedition.
- Baruntse expedition peak climbing permit and all government taxes.
- National park and conservation area permit fee for the expedition.
- Full board high altitude meal while trekking to base camp and climbing Baruntse
- Liaison officer with all his expenses while on the Baruntse climbing expedition.
- Expedition Manager, Expedition cook, support crew and porters with their types of equipment, daily wages, food, insurance, etc.
- All camping gear including base camp tents, dining tent with table and chair, kitchen and toilet tent, etc
- Mountain Hardware high altitude tents while climbing the Baruntse expedition
- Emergency Oxygen with regulator and mask while on the Baruntse expedition.
- EPI gas and burner for the high climb.
- Gamow bag / Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) All necessary climbing hardware group equipment
- Satellite Phone and Walkie-Talkie in case of emergency.
Cost Excludes
- Medical and personal high-risk insurance
- Nepal entry visa fees
- The main meal in Kathmandu
- Personal equipment and climbing gears.
- International airfare and airport tax
- Climbing Bonus, tips and personal nature expenses.
- Applicable permit fees and custom charge for Sat phone, communication equipment and commercial filming while on Baruntse expedition.
EQUIPMENTS
Travel Documents
- Valid Passport
- Credit Cards
- Pp Size Photo (4 Pieces)
- Insurance Paper And Contact Address.
- Family Members / Company’s Contact Address
Foot Wear
- Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet (Summit Shoe)
- Normal Socks (5-6 Pairs)
- Summit Socks (2 Pairs)
- Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)
- Camp Booties (1 Pair)
- Basecamp Slipper (1 Pair)
Upper Body
- Light Weight Top / Thermo Coat (2-3 Layers)
- Mid Weight Top (2-3 Layers)
- Heavy Weight Top (2 Layers)
- Fleece Jacket (1)
- Gore Text Jacket (1)
- Down Jacket (1)
- Wind Proof Jacket
- Cotton T-Shirt For Base Camp. (2-3)
Lower Body
- Light Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Under Wear (5-7 Pairs)
- Mid Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Heavy Weight Long Under Wear
- Gore Text Pant. (1)
- Down Pants. (1)
- Water Proof Pant. (1)
Head
- Sun Cap
- Desert Cap
- Balaclava
- Fleece Hat
- Neck Gaiter (2-3)
Hands
- Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
- Wind Stopper Fleece Gloves
- Heavy Gloves (Mitten)
- Summit Gloves
Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping Bag - 20 Degree Celsius (For Base Camp)
- Down Sleeping Bag - 20 To -40 Degree Celsius (Extreme Comfort)
- Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)
- Thermarest Mattress (Inflatable)
Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Helmet
- Down Suit (Kailas / Marmot / Mountain
- Hardware / North Face / Millet )
- Crampons (Fit with Boot)
- Ice Axe
- Harness
- Atc Guide
- Jummer / Ascender
- Lock Carabiner (3)
- Unlock Carabiner (3)
- Tape Slings (2)
- Prusik Loops (1)
- Snow Goggle
- Head Light (4 Pairs Rechargeable Batteries Recommended)
- Satellite Phone
- Hand Warmer (If Possible)
Bag Packs
- Rucksacks 45L - 55L
- Duffle Bag 90 L -120 L (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Large (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Small (2 Pieces)
Sun Stuffs
- Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream -50 (Spf)
- Lip Guard -20 / -50 (Spf)
- Sun Glasses (UV Protection)
- Glaciers Glasses (UV Protection)
Toiletries
- Hand Disinfectant
- Wet Tissue
- Toothpaste
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Shampoo
- Garbage Bag
Eating & Drinking
- Water Bottle (2)
- Thermos
- Mug
- Spoon/ Fork
- Bowl
Medical
- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous
- Walking Stick
- Pocket Knife (Swiss)
- Umbrella / Rain Coat
GOOD TO KNOW
What level of experience is required?
To join the Peak climb you should have a broad mountaineering background.
All Sherpa Expedition & Trekking staff is qualified, licensed and experienced climbers.
What are the climate and best times for climbing in Nepal?
Nepal has four seasons, for example, autumn (Sept. Oct. Nov.), winter (Dec. Jan. Feb.) spring (March, April, and May) and storm (June, July, and Aug.). During the fall season, the evenings are cold in the mountains however the splendid sun makes for lovely daytime temperatures. At higher elevations temperature extend from about 20°C down to maybe - 10°C around evening time. Morning is typically clear, and after that mists develop during the evening, vanishing during the evening to uncover staggering starry skies.
Throughout the winter season, high passes, particularly the Thorong-La pass, Dhaulagiri circuit, Tilicho (Musukanta Pass) in Annapurna trekking, Chola Pass, Renjo La Pass, Khongma La Pass, Amalaptse Pass, Rolwaling Pass, Serpent col in Everest region, Lauribina Pass, Ganja Pass, Gosainkunda in Langtang, Larky Pass in Manaslu, are generally shut. Short and simple trek in center slopes is the best on this time. Heavy snow during January, February, and March makes the trails unsafe.
The best time for trekking and climbing in Nepal is spring (March, April, and May) and in September, October and November.. You should be prepared for sudden changes in the weather, hence the need to be prepared.
Climbing Grades:
Evaluation A – "Moderate"
Evaluation B - "Specialized"
Evaluation C – "Specialized Plus"
Evaluation D – "Extreme climbing"
What sort of accommodation during the trek and climb?
Accommodation at lower altitudes is in a guest house, tea house or hotel. At higher altitudes tents are provided.
Meals during the trek & climb.
In Kathmandu your hotel includes breakfast, whereas all meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided during the trek. Staple foods of mountain regions are potatoes, oats, buckwheat, Sherpa stew and Tibetan bread. Sherpas’ started farming potatoes when the first seeds were introduced to the region in the early 90s. There is a limited choice of food at higher elevations and except many potato dishes. Potatoes are high in carbohydrates – an excellent source of energy needed at high altitudes..
Accidents and rescue incidents.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is set up for any crisis and your guides are experienced in first aid. In extreme emergencies a helicopter rescue is available
Personal insurance is necessary before heading on this expedition.
Emergency telephone numbers in Nepal.
For calling from outside Nepal you need to dial international 00+ and country code 977 and then the area code e.g. for Kathmandu it is 1. To call Sherpa Xpedition & Trekking dial 00+ 977 986 600 7038
The cost of the NMA Peak Climbing Royalty.
The climbing expenses structure of NMA:
"A" Peaks
For up to seven individuals USD 500
For each extra person up to 12 USD 100 per person
Group "B" Peaks
1-4 Persons USD 350
5-8 Persons USD 350 plus an extra USD 40 per person.
9-12 Persons 510.00 in addition to 25.00 (Per individual)
Note: The maximum number of individuals in the group is 12.
Trash store for every one of the 33 NMA designated peaks.
USD 250 to NMA
Mountaineering Fees
Per person in US Dollar
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5500, Winter/Summer 2750
Everest Other Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 1800, Autumn Season 900, Winter/Summer 450
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 600, Autumn Season 300, Winter/Summer 150
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 500, Autumn Season 250, Winter/Summer 125
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 200, Winter/Summer 100
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 400, Winter/Summer 200
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 250, Autumn Season 125, Winter/Summer 70
The arrangement of royalty for outside climbers will become effective from 1 January 2015 (B.S. 20171/09/17)
Royalty for Nepalese climber per person in Nepalese rupees.
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 75000, Autumn Season 37500, Winter/Summer 18250
Everest Other Route Spring Season 60000, Autumn Season 30000, Winter/Summer 15000
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 10000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 4000, Winter/Summer 2000
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 6000, Autumn Season 3000, Winter/Summer 1500
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 5000, Autumn Season 2500, Winter/Summer 1250
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 8000, Winter/Summer 4000
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 4000, Autumn Season 2000, Winter/Summer 1000
Royalty for Nepalese climbers will happen from 13 February 2014 (B.S. 20170/11/01).
The Mountaineering Royalty has been completely postponed to the mountains arranged in the Mid Western and Far Western Development Region of Nepal for a long time affecting from 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018).
Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal has expected that the opportune change in Royalty for mountaineering in Nepal will be the achievement for the advancement of the Nepalese Mountaineering Sector around the globe.
As per the choice of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the protection sum for Sardar, mountain guide and high height walker is fixed as Rs 15 lakhs. Also, therapeutic protection is fixed as Rs 4 lakhs.
The maximum no. of individuals in a group is 15.
What documents do we require for Permit?
International ID
Two photographs – passport-style less than six months old.
Occupation.
Home address.
Insurance policy copy
Mountaineering experience.
Remember – The better prepared – the more enjoyable your Expedition!
MAP
PHOTOS/Videos
Departures
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