MAKALU EXPEDITION
MAKALU EXPEDITION
Fascinated by the pyramids! How about an 8485m pyramid covered in snow, ice, and rock?
Are you an experienced mountain climber looking for a real challenge? Try Makalu, a four-sided pyramid soaring 8,485m (27,838 ft) in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km southeast of Mount Everest in the Makalu Barun National Park. Makalu has two subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7,678 m) about 3 km north-northwest of the main summit and Chomo Lonzo (7804m) that is connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow saddle of 7200m.
Makalu is definitely not a simple climb and is technically difficult and said to be one of the most challenging 8000m plus peaks in the world. You will have to climb some very steep inclines and across razor sharp ridges that will expose you to the often extreme weather conditions that prevail over this mountain. The last leg of the ascent requires some technical skills as you traverse a rocky terrain. Makalu has never been climbed during winter.
Most climbs traverse the north-western side of the mountain. The base camp is usually established at around 5,600m, with other camps at 6,100m, Camp 2 is at 6600m, the third camp is at 7200m and the last camp is at 7600m.
We have scheduled a few extra days in the itinerary in the event of the weather being unsuitable for climbing. These days are not wasted and will further help you to acclimatize as we camp at several altitudes on the side of the mountain at designated base camps. We will make an early morning start on the day of the climb, allowing ample time to reach the summit. Morning weather is often calmer and more predictable, but we mustn’t forget that “mother nature” makes its own rules.
Climbing Makalu requires you are fit and an experienced climber. It is considered a difficult and challenging climb with snow and ice to traverse along with several technical sections. You should be familiar with the use of crampons, ice axe, harness, grappling ropes and other alpine climbing techniques.
Some climbers recommend a gradual ascent to higher altitudes to avoid altitude sickness. Altitude sickness is most likely the major factor in denying a climb to the summit –and of course a sudden change in the weather.
The best season to climb Makalu is in April or May, in the spring, or in October and November in the fall season. Climbing mountains will teach you patience, persistence and gratitude. It will also leave you memories to last a lifetime.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking’s Sherpa guides (well known for their climbing skills) will lead you safely to the summit. Our guides are government certified and experienced climbers. We take no chances with your well-being and hence have allowed several days to make up for unforeseen circumstances, such as adjusting to higher altitudes and the possibility of altitude sickness.
ITINERARY
Day 1 : Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,300m)
Day 2 : Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition briefing and preparing
Day 3 : Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Num (1,560m)
Day 4 : Trek from Num to Sheduwa (1,510m): Camping
Day 5 : Trek from Sheduwa to Tashi Gaun (2,070m): Camping
Day 6 : Acclimatization at Tashi Gaun (rest day): camping
Day 7 : Trek from Tashi Gaun to Khongma (3,760m): Camping
Day 8 : Trek from Khongma to Mumbuk (3,520m): Camping
Day 9 : Trek from Mumbuk to Nehe Kharka (4,320m): Camping
Day 10 : Trek from Nehe Kharka to Makalu Lower Base Camp (4,870m)
Day 11 : Acclimatization in Lower Base Camp (rest day)
Day 12 : Acclimatization in Lower Base Camp (rest day)
Day 13 : Hike from Lower Base camp to Higher Base Camp
Day 14 - 42 : Climbing Period (Base Camp – Makalu Summit (8,163m)– Base Camp)
Day 43 : Preparation to Return (Base Camp Cleaning)
Day 44 : Trek from Makalu Base Camp to Yangle Kharka: Camping
Day 45 : Trek from Khongma to Sheduwa: Camping
Day 46 : Trek from Khongma to Sheduwa: Camping
Day 47 : Trek from Sheduwa to Num and drive to Khadbari or Tumlingtar
Day 48 : Drive from Khandbari to Tumlingtar and Fly to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel
Day 49 : Leisure day in Kathmandu
Day 50 : Transfer to International Airport for final departure
SERVICES
Full Board Service Includes
- Arrival and departure transfer services to and from the both domestic and international flight as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the international airport by Sherpa Expedition and Trekking while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
- 4 Nights Yak and Yeti or similar hotels accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
- Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
- Schedule Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
- All trekking and mountaineering equipment such as kitchen tent, stores tent, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for advance base camp and camp II.
- Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar etc)
- Services of chef and kitchen assistant at base camp.
- 3 meals a day: Breakfasts, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee available at the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking.
- 3 fresh meals a day: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner will be served at the advanced base camp.
- All food and fuel for base camp and the higher camps during the expedition for both members and crew.
- 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period, this will be carried by porters.
- Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company.
- Trekking Permit (Makalu Barun National Park entry fee).
- TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu (8485M).
- Nepalese Government Royalty and fees.
- One experienced, trained, government licensed, and 3x Everest summiteer climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
- All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
- Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpa, chefs, kitchen assistants.
- Equipment allowances and wages for government liaison officer.
- First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
- Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members at a cost of$3USD per minute.
- An appropriate amount of food for high altitude and at base camp and above as required.
- Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
- The heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
- Emergency oxygen, mask, and regulator provided upon request of the client with appropriate charge.
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- Solar panel for light and battery charging.
- All tents for camp 1, 2, 3 and 4 for members and staff.
- Icefall charges by SPCC
- Gamow Bags (Portable Altitude Chamber).
- 5 Bottles (28L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided each member (we use Poisk brands of the Oxygen).
- The latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators.
- Sherpas tents, food for climbing, and insurance for staff.
- Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, chef and staff.
- Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties.
- Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at camp II.
- Trekking and Climbing map of Mount Makalu.
- EPI Cooking gas, the stove will be provided in camps one, three and south col for cooking food, boiling water.
- The generator will be providing for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
- Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/Yaks to base camp)
- Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
- Complete pre-departure information
- Flight ticket reconfirmation
- Visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
- Sherpa Expedition and Trekking special Gift
Full Board Service Excludes
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner).
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking.
- Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips.
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations, etc.
- Extra transportation then displayed in the itinerary program.
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Walkie-talkies
- Filming permit.
- Personal climbing gears.
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phone, and internet expenses
- Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gear.
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
- Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum $1000.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide.
- Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (easy to obtain the visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport – Kathmandu). $30 USD for 15-day, $50 USD for 30 Days, and $125 USD for 90 Days visa.
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
- Any other item not included in the Cost Includes section.
EQUIPMENTS
Travel Documents
- Valid Passport
- Credit Cards
- Pp Size Photo (4 Pieces)
- Insurance Paper And Contact Address.
- Family Members / Company’s Contact Address
Foot Wear
- Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet (Summit Shoe)
- Normal Socks (5-6 Pairs)
- Summit Socks (2 Pairs)
- Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)
- Camp Booties (1 Pair)
- Basecamp Slipper (1 Pair)
Upper Body
- Light Weight Top / Thermo Coat (2-3 Layers)
- Mid Weight Top (2-3 Layers)
- Heavy Weight Top (2 Layers)
- Fleece Jacket (1)
- Gore Text Jacket (1)
- Down Jacket (1)
- Wind Proof Jacket
- Cotton T-Shirt For Base Camp. (2-3)
Lower Body
- Light Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Under Wear (5-7 Pairs)
- Mid Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Heavy Weight Long Under Wear
- Gore Text Pant. (1)
- Down Pants. (1)
- Water Proof Pant. (1)
Head
- Sun Cap
- Desert Cap
- Balaclava
- Fleece Hat
- Neck Gaiter (2-3)
Hands
- Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
- Wind Stopper Fleece Gloves
- Heavy Gloves (Mitten)
- Summit Gloves
Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping Bag - 20 Degree Celsius (For Base Camp)
- Down Sleeping Bag - 20 To -40 Degree Celsius (Extreme Comfort)
- Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)
- Thermarest Mattress (Inflatable)
Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Helmet
- Down Suit (Kailas / Marmot / Mountain
- Hardware / North Face / Millet )
- Crampons (Fit with Boot)
- Ice Axe
- Harness
- Atc Guide
- Jummer / Ascender
- Lock Carabiner (3)
- Unlock Carabiner (3)
- Tape Slings (2)
- Prusik Loops (1)
- Snow Goggle
- Head Light (4 Pairs Rechargeable Batteries Recommended)
- Satellite Phone
- Hand Warmer (If Possible)
Bag Packs
- Rucksacks 45L - 55L
- Duffle Bag 90 L -120 L (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Large (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Small (2 Pieces)
Sun Stuffs
- Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream -50 (Spf)
- Lip Guard -20 / -50 (Spf)
- Sun Glasses (UV Protection)
- Glaciers Glasses (UV Protection)
Toiletries
- Hand Disinfectant
- Wet Tissue
- Toothpaste
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Shampoo
- Garbage Bag
Eating & Drinking
- Water Bottle (2)
- Thermos
- Mug
- Spoon/ Fork
- Bowl
Medical
- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous
- Walking Stick
- Pocket Knife (Swiss)
- Umbrella / Rain Coat
GOOD TO KNOW
Here are some important things to know about the Makalu Expedition:
1. Location: Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located in the Mahalangur Himal range in Nepal, near the border with Tibet.
2. Difficulty: Makalu is considered one of the most challenging mountains to climb. It features steep and technical terrain, including icy slopes, rock faces, and narrow ridges. Previous mountaineering experience and technical skills are necessary to attempt this expedition.
3. Altitude: Makalu's summit stands at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level. Acclimatization is crucial to acclimate to the high altitude and prevent altitude sickness.
4. Expedition Length: The duration of a Makalu expedition can vary depending on the chosen route and weather conditions. Typically, it takes around 6-8 weeks to complete the expedition, including acclimatization periods.
5. Climbing Routes: The most popular route to climb Makalu is via the standard Southeast Ridge. This route involves technical climbing, including sections of steep ice and rock. Other routes, such as the West Face and the Northwest Ridge, are more challenging and less frequently climbed.
6. Permits: Climbing Makalu requires obtaining a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). You will also need to have a liaison officer from the NMA accompany your expedition team.
7. Sherpa Support: Like most Himalayan expeditions, Makalu expeditions often rely on the assistance of Sherpas. Sherpas are experienced climbers who provide support in carrying equipment, setting up camps, and guiding climbers during the ascent.
8. Equipment and Gear: Climbing Makalu requires specialized mountaineering equipment, including ice axes, crampons, harnesses, ropes, and high-altitude clothing. It is essential to have proper gear and clothing suitable for extreme weather conditions.
9. Training and Experience: Prior mountaineering experience and physical fitness are crucial for a Makalu expedition. It is recommended to have previous high-altitude climbing experience and undergo specific training programs to prepare for the challenges of the climb.
10. Safety Measures: Safety is of utmost importance during a Makalu expedition. It is essential to follow the guidance of experienced climbers and guides, have proper acclimatization periods, and be prepared for emergencies with necessary medical supplies and evacuation plans.
Remember, climbing Makalu is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning, preparation, and experience. It is always recommended to consult with professional mountaineering organizations and experienced climbers before attempting the expedition.
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FAQS
Is Makalu more difficult to climb than Mount Everest?
Makalu is considered to be one of the most challenging mountains to climb, and it is often regarded as more technically difficult than Mount Everest. The steep and technical terrain, combined with the remote location, make it a demanding expedition.
Can I climb Makalu without climbing any other mountains?
Yes, it is possible to climb Makalu without climbing any other mountains. However, previous high-altitude mountaineering experience is highly recommended due to the technical difficulty and extreme conditions of the climb.
How much does a Makalu expedition cost?
The cost of a Makalu expedition can vary depending on factors such as the climbing route, duration, support services, and logistical arrangements. On average, the cost can range from $40,000 to $70,000 or more.
What is the best time to climb Makalu?
The best time to climb Makalu is during the pre-monsoon season (April-May) and post-monsoon season (September-October). These periods generally have more stable weather conditions and lower chances of avalanches.
How long does it take to summit Makalu?
The duration to summit Makalu can vary depending on the climbing route, weather conditions, and individual climber's fitness level. On average, it takes around 6-8 weeks from base camp to reach the summit and return.
Are there any age restrictions for climbing Makalu?
There are no specific age restrictions for climbing Makalu, but climbers are required to be in excellent physical condition and have prior high-altitude mountaineering experience.
Do I need a climbing permit for Makalu?
Yes, you need to obtain a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to climb Makalu. The permit can be obtained through a registered trekking agency or a professional mountaineering organization.
What happens if I get sick or injured during the expedition?
In case of illness or injury during the expedition, it is crucial to have a well-prepared evacuation plan in place. Helicopter rescue services are available in the Makalu region, but it is recommended to have appropriate travel insurance that covers high-altitude rescues.
Are there any fixed ropes on Makalu?
Fixed ropes are typically installed on certain sections of Makalu's climbing routes to assist climbers. However, the availability and location of fixed ropes can vary from season to season, and it's important to be prepared to navigate the terrain independently if needed.
How many people have successfully climbed Makalu?
While the exact number can vary, it is estimated that around 3000 people have successfully summited Makalu since the first ascent in 1955. However, compared to other popular mountains like Everest, Makalu sees fewer climbers each year due to its technical difficulty and remote location.
Latest Traveller’s Reviews
Travel experiences of our clients who recently returned from their trips.
100%
Based On 4 Reviews
Catherine D Walsh
Australia
November 1, 2023
Makalu Expedition: A Journey of Personal Growth
Makalu Expedition not only tested my physical limits but also pushed me to grow mentally and emotionally. The journey taught me the importance of perseverance, resilience, and teamwork. It was a transformative experience that allowed me to discover my inner strength and gain a deeper appreciation for the power and beauty of the mountains. If you're ready to embark on a journey that will change you from the inside out, Makalu Expedition is an absolute must.
Ladora Simmons
Czech Republic
November 17, 2022
The Sherpa Expedition Guide: A True Hero
Our Sherpa expedition guide on Makalu Expedition was nothing short of exceptional. Their expertise in mountaineering and intimate knowledge of the region were evident at every step of the journey. They not only guided us safely through the challenging terrain but also shared their love and respect for the mountains, making the experience even more meaningful.
Dave Johnson
Finland
July 18, 2019
A Well-Organized Adventure on Makalu Expedition
Makalu Expedition was flawlessly organized, leaving no room for worry or stress. The team's meticulous planning ensured that every aspect of the journey ran smoothly, from the transportation to the daily schedule. This allowed us to fully immerse ourselves in the adventure, knowing that everything was taken care of.
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