PUMORI EXPEDITION
PUMORI EXPEDITION
Only eight kilometers from Mt. Everest! The Pumori Expedition awaits the climbing enthusiast and adventurer. Go for it! One of the more difficult 7000m peaks.
Mt. Pumori (7161m/27,494ft) will test your endurance and climbing skills, but like all mountains, the rewards will overwhelmingly compensate for the effort required to reach its summit. Mt. Pumori is located on the border of Nepal in the Mahalangur Himal in the Himalayas, stretching from Nangpa La Pass between Rolwaling Himal and Cho Oyu, to the Arun River. It includes Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu — four of earth's six highest peaks. Pumori means "the Mountain Daughter" in the Sherpa language. ‘Pumo’ means young girl or daughter and ‘Ri’ means mountain.
This expedition requires you to have previous climbing experience and are familiar with the use of ropes and other mountaineering equipment. You will climb across glaciers and snow-covered ridges to reach the summit. This is not something for the faint-hearted! This is a genuine climbing expedition that requires climbing up 40 to 60-degree slopes. Fortunately, you will be roped-off and will have some expert guidance before and during the climb. Several camps will be established at varying altitudes prior to ascending to the summit.
The main attraction of climbing Mt. Pumori is that it offers fantastic views of Mt. Everest and views toward Tibet and the Rongbuk Glacier. It is also used as preparation for climbing Mt.Everest.
From Gorakshep we begin the climbing period. Before we head to the summit we will be well and truly ready for the challenge ahead. We will practice daily numerous climbing skills and take short climbs to higher elevations to give you confidence and an opportunity to test your skills. Your Sherpa Expedition & Trekking guide will check, and double check, all equipment and be sure that everyone is mentally and physically well enough to attempt the climb to Pumori Summit (7160m). We have scheduled a few days in the event the weather is unsuitable for climbing. These days are not wasted and will further help you to acclimatize as we camp at several altitudes on the side of the mountain as designated base camps. We will make an early morning start on the day of the climb, allowing ample time to reach the summit. Morning weather is often calmer and more predictable, but we mustn’t forget that “mother nature” makes its own rules.
We will ascend the south-east ridge, reaching here by following the trail through the Khumbu region, passing through Phakding (2652m), Namche Bazaar (3440m), Everest View Hotel (3800m), Tyangboche (3850m) with time to explore its well known Buddhist monastery before reaching Dingboche (4350m) and further on Lobuche (5018m) where we take time out to acclimatize, something critical to your physical well-being that could determine your ultimate success in climbing Mt. Pumori. We then head to Gorakshep (5170m). You will notice the gradual ascent to higher altitudes. Some believe the ultimate daily increment of 500 meters best assists the acclimatization process.
Base Camp is at (5300m/17,388ft). The next camp requires crossing icy masses and sharp ridge for 4 to 5 hours before arriving at Camp I (5700m/18,701ft). From camp I, we ascend a 40 to 60-degree face through the snow before arriving at Camp II (6200m/20,341ft). From camp II we cross more ice and chasms before reaching Camp III (6500m/21,325ft). Camp III is the launch point to reach the summit.
Your biggest obstacle in reaching the summit will be altitude sickness and lack of mental and physical will power.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking use Sherpa guides (well known for their climbing skills) to lead you safely to the summit.
ITINERARY
Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu and Transfer to hotel.
Day 2 : Preparation, briefings, shopping and formalities for permit.
Day 3 : Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding (2652m-4 Hrs.)
Day 4 : Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m-6 Hrs.)
Day 5 : Rest & acclimatization, explore Everest View Hotel (3800m-3 Hrs.).
Day 6 : Trek to Tyangboche (3850m-5 Hrs.); Explore Buddhist monastery
Day 7 : Trek to Dingboche (4350m-5Hrs.)
Day 8 : Trek to Lobuche (5018m-4Hrs.)
Day 9 : Rest for acclimatization at Lobuche.
Day 10 : Trek to Gorakshep (5170m-3 Hrs.)
Day 11 : Day 12-28: Climbing period Summit Pumori (7, 161m), full camping.
Day 29 : Down trek to Gorakshep, overnight lodge.
Day 30 : Trek via Lobuche (5218m)to Dingboche(4260m-5 Hrs.)
Day 31 : Trek to Tyangboche (3860m-5 Hrs.), lodge.
Day 32 : Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m-4 Hrs.)
Day 33 : Trek to Lukla (2840m-7 Hrs.)
Day 34 : Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu; hotel transfer, debriefing.
Day 35 : Contingency day in Kathmandu, farewell celebration dinner.
Day 36 : Transfer to the airport for final departure, end of the trip.
SERVICES
Full Board Service Included
- Airport transportation as per your arrival date to join the Pumori expedition
- 3-star category hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B plan
- Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu airfare as per the expedition itinerary.
- Pumori summiteers climbing Sherpa (01 Sherpa: 02 climber’s ratio)
- Group climbing gears like rope, ice bar, etc for the Pumori expedition.
- Pumori peak climbing permit and all government taxes.
- National park and conservation area permit fee for the expedition.
- Full board high altitude meal while trekking to base camp and climbing Pumori
- Liaison officer with all his expenses while on the Pumori climbing expedition.
- Expedition Manager, Expedition cook, support crew and porters with their types of equipment, daily wages, food, insurance, etc.
- All camping gear including base camp tents, dining tent with table and chair, kitchen and toilet tent, etc
- Mountain Hardware high altitude tents while climbing the Pumori expedition
- Emergency Oxygen with regulator and mask while on the Pumori expedition.
- EPI gas and burner for the high climb.
- Gamow bag / Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) All necessary climbing hardware group equipment
- Satellite Phone and Walkie-Talkie in case of emergency.
Cost Excludes
- Medical and personal high-risk insurance
- Nepal entry visa fees
- The main meal in Kathmandu
- Personal equipment and climbing gears.
- International airfare and airport tax
- Climbing Bonus, tips and personal nature expenses.
- Applicable permit fees and custom charge for Sat phone, communication equipment and commercial filming while on Pumori expedition.
EQUIPMENTS
Travel Documents
- Valid Passport
- Credit Cards
- Pp Size Photo (4 Pieces)
- Insurance Paper And Contact Address.
- Family Members / Company’s Contact Address
Foot Wear
- Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet (Summit Shoe)
- Normal Socks (5-6 Pairs)
- Summit Socks (2 Pairs)
- Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)
- Camp Booties (1 Pair)
- Basecamp Slipper (1 Pair)
Upper Body
- Light Weight Top / Thermo Coat (2-3 Layers)
- Mid Weight Top (2-3 Layers)
- Heavy Weight Top (2 Layers)
- Fleece Jacket (1)
- Gore Text Jacket (1)
- Down Jacket (1)
- Wind Proof Jacket
- Cotton T-Shirt For Base Camp. (2-3)
Lower Body
- Light Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Under Wear (5-7 Pairs)
- Mid Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Heavy Weight Long Under Wear
- Gore Text Pant. (1)
- Down Pants. (1)
- Water Proof Pant. (1)
Head
- Sun Cap
- Desert Cap
- Balaclava
- Fleece Hat
- Neck Gaiter (2-3)
Hands
- Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
- Wind Stopper Fleece Gloves
- Heavy Gloves (Mitten)
- Summit Gloves
Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping Bag - 20 Degree Celsius (For Base Camp)
- Down Sleeping Bag - 20 To -40 Degree Celsius (Extreme Comfort)
- Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)
- Thermarest Mattress (Inflatable)
Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Helmet
- Down Suit (Kailas / Marmot / Mountain
- Hardware / North Face / Millet )
- Crampons (Fit with Boot)
- Ice Axe
- Harness
- Atc Guide
- Jummer / Ascender
- Lock Carabiner (3)
- Unlock Carabiner (3)
- Tape Slings (2)
- Prusik Loops (1)
- Snow Goggle
- Head Light (4 Pairs Rechargeable Batteries Recommended)
- Satellite Phone
- Hand Warmer (If Possible)
Bag Packs
- Rucksacks 45L - 55L
- Duffle Bag 90 L -120 L (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Large (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Small (2 Pieces)
Sun Stuffs
- Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream -50 (Spf)
- Lip Guard -20 / -50 (Spf)
- Sun Glasses (UV Protection)
- Glaciers Glasses (UV Protection)
Toiletries
- Hand Disinfectant
- Wet Tissue
- Toothpaste
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Shampoo
- Garbage Bag
Eating & Drinking
- Water Bottle (2)
- Thermos
- Mug
- Spoon/ Fork
- Bowl
Medical
- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous
- Walking Stick
- Pocket Knife (Swiss)
- Umbrella / Rain Coat
GOOD TO KNOW
What level of experience is required?
To join the Peak climb you should have a broad mountaineering background.
All Sherpa Expedition & Trekking staff is qualified, licensed and experienced climbers.
What are the climate and best times for climbing in Nepal?
Nepal has four seasons, for example, autumn (Sept. Oct. Nov.), winter (Dec. Jan. Feb.) spring (March, April, and May) and storm (June, July, and Aug.). During the fall season, the evenings are cold in the mountains however the splendid sun makes for lovely daytime temperatures. At higher elevations temperature extend from about 20°C down to maybe - 10°C around evening time. Morning is typically clear, and after that mists develop during the evening, vanishing during the evening to uncover staggering starry skies.
Throughout the winter season, high passes, particularly the Thorong-La pass, Dhaulagiri circuit, Tilicho (Musukanta Pass) in Annapurna trekking, Chola Pass, Renjo La Pass, Khongma La Pass, Amalaptse Pass, Rolwaling Pass, Serpent col in Everest region, Lauribina Pass, Ganja Pass, Gosainkunda in Langtang, Larky Pass in Manaslu, are generally shut. Short and simple trek in center slopes is the best on this time. Heavy snow during January, February, and March makes the trails unsafe.
The best time for trekking and climbing in Nepal is spring (March, April, and May) and in September, October and November.. You should be prepared for sudden changes in the weather, hence the need to be prepared.
Climbing Grades:
Evaluation A – "Moderate"
Evaluation B - "Specialized"
Evaluation C – "Specialized Plus"
Evaluation D – "Extreme climbing"
What sort of accommodation during the trek and climb?
Accommodation at lower altitudes is in a guest house, tea house or hotel. At higher altitudes tents are provided.
Meals during the trek & climb.
In Kathmandu your hotel includes breakfast, whereas all meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided during the trek. Staple foods of mountain regions are potatoes, oats, buckwheat, Sherpa stew and Tibetan bread. Sherpas’ started farming potatoes when the first seeds were introduced to the region in the early 90s. There is a limited choice of food at higher elevations and except many potato dishes. Potatoes are high in carbohydrates – an excellent source of energy needed at high altitudes..
Accidents and rescue incidents.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is set up for any crisis and your guides are experienced in first aid. In extreme emergencies a helicopter rescue is available
Personal insurance is necessary before heading on this expedition.
Emergency telephone numbers in Nepal.
For calling from outside Nepal you need to dial international 00+ and country code 977 and then the area code e.g. for Kathmandu it is 1. To call Sherpa Xpedition & Trekking dial 00+ 977 986 600 7038
The cost of the NMA Peak Climbing Royalty.
The climbing expenses structure of NMA:
"A" Peaks
For up to seven individuals USD 500
For each extra person up to 12 USD 100 per person
Group "B" Peaks
1-4 Persons USD 350
5-8 Persons USD 350 plus an extra USD 40 per person.
9-12 Persons 510.00 in addition to 25.00 (Per individual)
Note: The maximum number of individuals in the group is 12.
Trash store for every one of the 33 NMA designated peaks.
USD 250 to NMA
Mountaineering Fees
Per person in US Dollar
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5500, Winter/Summer 2750
Everest Other Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 1800, Autumn Season 900, Winter/Summer 450
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 600, Autumn Season 300, Winter/Summer 150
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 500, Autumn Season 250, Winter/Summer 125
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 200, Winter/Summer 100
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 400, Winter/Summer 200
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 250, Autumn Season 125, Winter/Summer 70
The arrangement of royalty for outside climbers will become effective from 1 January 2015 (B.S. 20171/09/17)
Royalty for Nepalese climber per person in Nepalese rupees.
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 75000, Autumn Season 37500, Winter/Summer 18250
Everest Other Route Spring Season 60000, Autumn Season 30000, Winter/Summer 15000
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 10000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 4000, Winter/Summer 2000
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 6000, Autumn Season 3000, Winter/Summer 1500
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 5000, Autumn Season 2500, Winter/Summer 1250
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 8000, Winter/Summer 4000
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 4000, Autumn Season 2000, Winter/Summer 1000
Royalty for Nepalese climbers will happen from 13 February 2014 (B.S. 20170/11/01).
The Mountaineering Royalty has been completely postponed to the mountains arranged in the Mid Western and Far Western Development Region of Nepal for a long time affecting from 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018).
Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal has expected that the opportune change in Royalty for mountaineering in Nepal will be the achievement for the advancement of the Nepalese Mountaineering Sector around the globe.
As per the choice of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the protection sum for Sardar, mountain guide and high height walker is fixed as Rs 15 lakhs. Also, therapeutic protection is fixed as Rs 4 lakhs.
The maximum no. of individuals in a group is 15.
What documents do we require for Permit?
International ID
Two photographs – passport-style less than six months old.
Occupation.
Home address.
Insurance policy copy
Mountaineering experience.
Remember – The better prepared – the more enjoyable your Expedition!
MAP
PHOTOS/Videos
Departures
| Trip Date | Duration | Price | Seats Left | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Apr 12, 2023 | 36 Days | $9,700 | 15 | Book Now |
| Oct 06, 2023 | 36 Days | $9,700 | 15 | Book Now |
| Apr 17, 2024 | 36 Days | $9,700 | 15 | Book Now |
| Trip Date | Duration | Price | Seats Left | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Apr 12, 2023 | 36 Days | $ 9,700 | 15 | Book Now |
| Trip Date | Duration | Price | Seats Left | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oct 06, 2023 | 36 Days | $ 9,700 | 15 | Book Now |
| Trip Date | Duration | Price | Seats Left | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Apr 17, 2024 | 36 Days | $ 9,700 | 15 | Book Now |
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