USD 2,190 / Per Person
- destination
- Everest
- duration
- 17 Days
- grade
- Moderate
- start/end point
- Kathmandu/Kathmandu
- region
- Everest
- max altitude
- 6,189m
- group size
- 2-12
- meal
- All inclusive
- activity
- 5-6 hours
- accommodation
- Teahouse +Camping
- season
- All season
Island Peak (Imja Tse) Overview
Island Peak Climb is arguably one of the best mountaineering expeditions to the 6,189 meter above sea level. Located in the heart of the Everest Region of Nepal, this amazing peak is called the Imja Tse locally and nestled within the bounds of UNESCO listed World Heritage Site of Sagarmatha National Park, among the Nepal Himalayas. This popular trek is labeled as one of the trekking peaks, where Island Peak Climbing has turned into an inevitable step for novice to intermediate mountaineers' higher altitude aspirations.
Island Peak Expedition includes a combination of Camping at Base Camp and Teahouse trekking around Khumbu Region along with Alpine climbing. Climbers will enjoy crossing many traditional Sherpa Community as they pass through and witness the locals, the famous Tengboche Monastery etc, and the rich local Buddhist culture. While traveling through Khumbu the accommodation will be in the best available mountain lodges, but climbers will utilize tents as accommodation once they arrive at base camp or reach summit camp to be set for the day of climb up.
Acclimatization schedules have been strategically planned within the trek so as to allow for the physiological adjustments that are necessary when adapting to decreased oxygen levels at high altitudes. The trek to Island Peak involves walking along the end of the Khumbu Glacier before turning up the valley floor towards the Imja Glacier. On the way up a few days, there is a summit push on Island Peak at an earlier morning hour to travel over a glacier in the snow that requires the use of Glacier Travel, crampons, and the technical ascension of pre-rigged Fixed Ropes to travel up 100 meters of Ice Headwall.
The Island Peak summit at 6,189 m presents with stunning, unobstructed views across an amazing sweep of the Himalayan Panorama. From its summit, be right on the front-line of these giants like the celebrated Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu – even Cho Oyu, far off in the distant haze, will be there. Island Peak climbs are under the guidance of expert Sherpa guides that look after trekker's welfare on the slope, along with their progress and safety on the fixed line anchors and control the group pace. Safety on crevasses is under the care and vigilance of each and every Sherpa guide. Island Peak Base Camp is situated at 5,200m where climbers can use all resources available there to prepare equipment and get rope training for climbing desired peak i.e. Island Peak.
Island Peak Highlights
- Climb to the summit of Island Peak (6189m) – one of Nepal's most popular climbed trekking peaks and a perfect way to experience Himalayan mountaineering and high altitude trekking for the first time.
- Catch incredible views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Ama Dablam and numerous other snow-capped Himalayan ranges right from the summit, and throughout the trek.
- Trek along the very classic EBC trails through the Khumbu region; you get to visit the most popular trekking spots of the EBC route and trek along famous EBC trails.
- Explore the Sagarmatha National Park. This is a world heritage park; which possesses the grand scenery of the alpine including mountains, glaciers, alpine forest and wildlife habitat etc.
- Trek to local Sherpa settlement village and have interaction with people who follow traditions by ancient Sherpa life at: Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche and Khumjung and Chhukung and get insight about Nepali’s high altitude culture,
- Visit historic monasteries like; cultural heritage Tengboche Monastery with Buddhism practice.
- Cross remote high mountain passes and glacier terrain on your trek and on the ascent to Island Peak, all of which add to make trekking interesting and exciting. You will travel through ancient routes of the Everest region – see all prominent landmarks, glaciers, and passes that lead towards EBC and Island Peak.
- Optional day trip for Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar to have an unbelievable chance to view Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha) at close distance.
- Experience Sherpa traditions, culture, generosity, food and spiritual way of life on trekking adventures through the heart of Everest Nepal.
Island Peak Climbing Route
The Island Peak Climb starts at dawn from a mountain flight in an area to Lukla's mountain airstrip. Following the trail of the Dudh Koshi River downstream after leaving Lukla through Phakding and turning sharply uphill towards the vibrant center of Namche Bazaar, reach higher elevation in the Everest region on a high-altitude pine forest trail to Tengboche, home to the famous monastery, and continue onward to the high-altitude settlement of Dingboche.
Turning away from the main Everest trail to the Chhukung Island Peak trekking trail leads the trekkers to Island Peak Base Camp. The early-morning trek continues with moving towards the summit pass-through glacier and snow-clad slopes to reach the Island Peak Summit that’s located at an altitude of 6,189 meters. Then, after descent back to its base, reverse route takes place to reach Chhukung, then Pangboche till coming down via Namche Bazaar all the way to Lukla for taking a return flight to Kathmandu.
Flora and Wildlife on the Island Peak Route
Sagarmatha National Park protects a range of vegetation zones and alpine animals from the altitude range of 2,800m to 6,189m. On the lower slopes dense temperate vegetation of the blue pine, silver fir, Himalayan birch and hemlock forests are seen at varying altitudes. Beyond these, above the ranges from 3,000 - 4,000 meters, thick rhododendron forests can be seen coating the slopes as wild flowers; pink, red and white colour, and in spring they provide a burst of colours on hills.
Above tree-line of 4,000 mts subalpine forest recedes to make place of alpine scrub and tundra covered with climate-resilient species like dwarf rhododendron (Rhododendron setosum), alpine grasses and herbs with dwarf Himalayan juniper alpine varieties with few mosses and lichen flora.
Rocky moraines up to 5,000 meters harbour some alpine flora like blue poppy and edelweiss, which can survive and bloom very much at such altitudes. The mammals and birds in the fauna at upper Khumbu Valley are well adapted to the harsh terrain in the area.
The endangered Snow Leopard is inhabitants to rocky places in deserted remote areas; the Himalayan tahr and Musk Deer in cliffs and birch forests sides; along routes to the island's base there lives Himalayan Monal pheasant, blood pheasant and several species of high altitude choughs.
Why Choose Island Peak Climbing?
No previous climbing experience required
Anyone of reasonable fitness without climbing experience can complete this challenge. This route involves mostly alpine walking on fixed ropes and does not require actual climbing ability.
Basic climbing training at base camp
Before attempting the climb, trekkers are given a base camp briefing with Certified Sherpa Guides on the operation of the following. harness adjustment, crampon positioning, how to Jumar, how to trace and follow an ascender on a fixed line and downwards abseil over fixed ropes.
A challenging but achievable climb
The top is at 6,189 metres, and at this high altitude the climb features a vertical and difficult 100-metre headwall, which requires excellent fitness. However, fixed ropes assist climbers in negotiating this hard part.
Breathtaking panoramic mountain views
With a summit at 6,189 meters, it provides an unparalleled 360-degree panorama of all the major Himalayan mountains like Lhotse (8,516m), Nuptse (7,861m), Makalu (8,485m), and Ama Dablam (6,812m).
Comfortable Teahouse and Base Camp Experience
There will be a hotel/mountain lodge for trekking days with a heating dining hall and hot food. Similarly a personal tent will be set up in the base camp with neat and tidy dining arrangements.
Why Choose Island Peak Climbing with Sherpa Expedition and Trekking
- Local Sherpa-Led Operations: Started and operated by local Sherpa natives of the Khumbu we are deep-rooted in our culture, with expert high-altitude experience and have ground connections unmatched by international travel agents.
- Master Climbing Sherpa Leaders: The team is led by experienced licensed Sherpa mountaineering guides with multiple 6,000m+ and 8,000m+ summits who have world-class fixing skills, glacial navigation ability and high-altitude rescue knowledge.
- Guaranteed Departure Dates and Customized travel to your needs: All spring/autumn departure dates are guaranteed to run, plus we provide custom private trip scheduling on a date/time that suits you, including flexibility with your custom acclimatization preference.
- Optional gear rentals available: Hire out quality, washed and 'zero-sub-zero' rated down jackets, and alpine sleeping bags when you arrive in Kathmandu so you do not need to carry heavy kit up. Available for hire at an honest, modest charge and all equipment in "as new", washed condition.
- 24/7 Emergency Support: Ground teams remain in direct communication via two-way radio daily, with two-way satellite phones. And twice each day guides will do vital checkups with pulse oximeters, on standby with emergency and rapid medical helicopter evacuation services for emergency treatment at all times.
- Simple Hassle-Free Online Booking: Pay a small deposit securely online with our streamlined website; receive booking updates immediately plus an easy, fair policy regarding deferrals or changes. Our local trip planners answer immediately to all questions before you fly.
- Ethically Local Travel: We follow responsible tourism by heart and pay fair wages and provide comprehensive insurance and personal climbing gear for every porter and guide. We adhere to strict leave-no-trace guidelines at all times.
Elevation Profile
Island Peak Climbing Itinerary for 17 Days
After arriving at the Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will receive warm hospitality and be transferred to your hotel for a refreshing sleep to beat the post-flight exhaustion and to relax a little so as to visit around on your own or have lunch. In the evening, meet with your climbing guide and team for orientation of the expedition trip along with getting yourselves organized. You can revise and go through your check-up list and rent any of the missing equipment.
A spectacular, scenic ride will whisk us all off to Lukla for a ride of a lifetime amongst the snowy peaks of the Himalayan range. As we land at the mountain airport, our support crew members along with our Sherpas and porters join our group. After getting ourselves organized we commence our treks on the banks of the Dudh Koshi River, surrounded by lush green hills, traditional Sherpa hamlets, prayer wheel and carved mani stone. While crossing over various suspension bridges we arrive at the peaceful village of Phakding after which we'll be spending our first night in this lovely cosy local teahouse.
Leaving Phakding you head upriver, under the towering and sweet-smelling pines and rhododendron trees. Along the way you'll traverse huge and rather precariously swinging suspension bridges, including the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge. Shortly after entering Sagarmatha National Park, the path from Monjo transforms into a steep but non-stop ascent towards what is now known as the Sherpa capital. In fact, as you ascend towards Namche Bazaar, views will open and you will get a first, teasing view of the giant, Everest appearing in the distance above other ridges.
Once reaching the amphitheatre carved out by the surrounding mountains, you will reach a bustling village with its friendly array of shops and tea shops. There check in into your place to stay, it's then time for a potter round the market or you can duck into a cafe for a freshly made coffee.
Today is our rest day, dedicated to the most important aspects of altitude adaptation; it helps your body to take a necessary break in order to acclimatize itself to thinning air at altitude. Following our morning tea, we’ll hike up to the Everest View Hotel for an excellent panoramic view of Everest and neighboring mountains such as Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku. From this highest point we can observe awesome views of the Everest panorama. Along the way you’ll also visit the Sherpa culture museum and two very interesting Sherpa villages, Khumjung and Khunde, where you'll have the opportunity to observe the traditional Tibetan way of life, and discover details about the life of the Sherpa. Enjoy the afternoon with leisure time strolling around the colorful local markets of Namche, relax in popular Namche-based cafe houses, or enjoy a peaceful stay in your teahouse. Getting a good rest today for a great hike on the higher days to come will be quite beneficial.
Leaving Namche, the trekking trail is a pleasant and level walk high up the valley walls with superb vistas of Ama Dablam as you make your way towards your destination of the day. We will descend to the river valley at Phunki Thenga for our lunch, after which the path gently begins its ascent up through dense rhododendron and fir forests. The trail takes you up to what is perhaps the spiritually most important place in the entire region of Khumbu, Tengboche. Situated on some high terrain, in the shadows of Ama Dablam and Everest in the background, Tengboche houses the largest monastery in the Everest area. This afternoon you have an option to walk into Tengboche monastery and see some monks attending prayer.
Passing along the side of alpine trees from the ridge top to the valley of Imja Khola by suspension bridge, we ascend to the valley upwards to Pangboche. Hiking up the valley, from above the tree line, the plants become dry and thin. Following many more mani walls and chortens up the valley from the river, you can see sheer, tremendous cliffs of Ama Dablam up close. Deeper into the high Himalayas, the village of Dingboche is the last major hub. Set high and known as the "Summer Valley," this is where most trekkers will take some time to allow for adequate acclimatization.
This gives us another crucial acclimatization day by going through a process by means of which the body adapts itself at high altitudes exceeding the elevation over 5000 meters. You will leave on the day before in the morning for a very steep climb that is consistent going all the way up to the top of Nangkartshang (5083 m) for a remarkable vista of Makalu, Lhotse, Cholatse, Taboche, and the Imja Valley. Going up for extended hours at high altitude helps to build the amount of blood cells, thereby helping your body adapt to high altitude. Once you are satisfied with the photo opportunities at the top of there, you can also descend back towards Dingboche to warm yourself with dinner, with enough comfort and enough rest for the tougher days that await you.
The path climbs up on a high ridge which overlooks the Pheriche valley. Crossing a wide rocky wind blown field, we reach the first of several hamlets on our way towards Dughla. This is followed by crossing a glacier river and then beginning a strenuous ascent along the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier. At the top of the pass, where stones are heaped into a vast array of chortens commemorating climbers who died at the high altitudes, the Everest Memorial stands at our pass before the trekking route turns north, following the lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier to Lobuche. The air is very thin now, and we have reached an arid mountain, and high peaks above 6,000 meters dominate the area around us.
Rise early for the day’s early start and our climb up to Khumbu Glacier's rocky moraine where we come to the ultimate tea house of this trekking region, Gorak Shep. Once we leave our heavy rucksack, we get short breaks and quick bites and then hike ahead towards Everest Base Camp. After walking along the loose stone, debris, and ridge of glacial ice, we reach the famous site, Everest Base Camp, from where you can view up close the Khumbu icefall with a number of the towering peak summits. We take snaps, celebrate our achievement, and return back over glacial moraine to Gorak Shep to get food and good sleep.
Starting early before dawn, we will go towards our next destination "Kala Patthar" which lies at an altitude of 5,550 meters above sea level for viewing the golden Himalaya sunrise from here.
Also, when the day starts getting bright, you can get the premier close up view of the world's tallest mountain "Everest," along with other icy giants i.e., Nuptse, Changtse and many more. Then after that, you will be back at Gorak Shep for your warm breakfast then you will be back in collecting all your gears to trek down the valley trekking along the famous Khumbu Glacier for an overnight stay at Lobuche after the success of your great trekking to the world’s highest mountain base camp “Everest Base Camp”.
You cross one quite demanding high pass, starting the day by setting out from Lobuche very early, crossing ice and rubble of the Khumbu Glacier until you climb up the ridge on steep rock to reach this pass at 5,535 metres. Prayer flags fly at the top, and you enjoy a spectacular view of Lhotse, Pokalde, Imja valley etc. Descending steeply down on the eastern side is full of scree fields thus be careful on every step. You descend down to the valley, trekking flat area till Chhukung village and rest for the day.
The route continues from Chhukung heading east on the southern side of the Imja Glacier with incredible views of the towering southern wall of Lhotse. Walk around the valley floors which are full of gravelly terrain as you get amazing views of the Island Peak directly.
You'll reach Island Peak Base Camp today where we will stay at our newly established tented camps. Afternoon will be used for gear and safety briefing by your climbing guide team. Also you can use this time to learn how to operate fixed rope, harnesses, ascenders and crampons for tomorrow's summit push.
You begin the ascent attempt sometime after midnight, traversing into narrow ridges and rocky ravines under starry night skies. At the crampon point of the snow line, you'll get outfitted with hardware, tie into your roped team and navigate across the crevassed glacier. Next, using special ascenders, you will climb the steep headwall fixed ropes and finally arrive at the narrow summit ridge where you can take in the breathtaking view from Island Peak Summit (6,189m). At that point, you have worked hard enough during this day's climbing journey such that you should get an extraordinarily beautiful panoramic 360° view of mountains including Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse. After enjoying the celebration time, you come back to Base Camp after being cautious while descending because after spending one day's climbing journey in altitude, you need to relax properly. Finally, after resting here, we continue our descent towards Chhukung for an overnight stay.
After summit success, now trek down to the valley. You will trek further on from Chhukung, passing through the Imja and valley sides as well as Dingboche, to reach your destination, Pangboche. Pass through the rhododendron and birch forest, cross the bridge above Imja, and come back to the Tengboche Monastery. Following a steep descent you continue trekking to Phunki Tenga and reach the climb-back high trail to Namche Bazaar. In Namche you should treat yourself to a shower, a hot meal and celebration together in the nice environment of a less high mountain altitude area with your climbing team.
The trekking on your last day begins from the busy village of Namche Bazaar where you begin with a fast descent back towards the Hillary Suspension Bridge. Your trek follows the path through which you originally came to the valley. Keeping the roar of the Dudh Koshi River by your side you trek along the beautiful valleys passing through Monjo and Phakding and several other beautiful Sherpa villages to finally arrive at Lukla with a short steep up and easy trek. There, after a successful journey, you will celebrate your ending trip by relaxing and reminiscing on your adventures with guides and porters in the Sherpa way on your farewell evening party.
In the morning, take a smooth and quick mountain flight out of Lukla to Kathmandu and have one last glorious view of Mount Himalaya while on a flight. Then there will be a transfer from the airport to your hotel. You have a full leisure day to relax and revive, get a massage and go shopping for souvenirs around Thamel or just another step in a walk through Kathmandu's monuments like Kathmandu Durbar Square or Swayambhunath Stupa.
Your adventure in the beautiful mountains of Himalayas concludes today. If time allows, before taking your luggage and putting it into your vehicle, enjoy some last minute shopping. A tour representative will drive you from your hotel to the Tribhuvan International Airport and you will arrive well in advance of your international flight. As you leave the aircraft, you will say goodbye to Nepal knowing that you have many wonderful memories, a bunch of new friends and also have an unforgettable feeling of standing on a mountain - Island Peak.
Island Peak Climb Cost and Package
Inclusion
- Airport Pick-up and drop off (private jeep/car)
- 2 nights 3-star standard hotel in Kathmandu, including breakfast
- Three meals a day (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner) with fruit every evening while trekking and climbing
- Lodge and accommodation for the duration of trek
- Accommodation in a high altitude tent during climb.
- Permits for the climb including Island Peak climbing permit, National Park fees and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Municipality fee
- Domestic flights: Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu round trip fare and transfer by air and local charges.
- Guided trekking and climbing; highly experienced licensed and English-speaking expedition guide with all expenses such as salary, meals, accommodation, transportation, and personal accident and travel insurance.
- Porter: Dedicated porters from Sherpa with proper walking and safety equipment, including all their personal expenses, salary and transportation as per their assigned loads (one porter for two trekkers).
- Assistant: An assistant guide will be provided in case of a group of 8 or more trekkers.
- Safety and medical equipment: First aid medical kit and pulse oximeter monitoring (Pulse and Oxygen Saturation will be checked twice daily to ensure that you don't suffer from mountain sickness).
- Emergency arrangement: All necessary helicopter emergency rescue assistance (The payment should be handled by your travel insurance policy).
- Complimentary trekking equipment use: High quality trekking poles, down jackets, sleeping bags, and duffel bags (this equipment should be returned in good condition after the trip).
- Extra: Company expedition T-Shirt and an official trip certificate will be awarded to the summiteer.
- Tax: All applicable government taxes and official charges.
Exclusion
- Kathmandu meals, like lunch and dinner, as per the above program.
- Visa Entrance Fees of Nepal (you can get a visa upon arrival: 15 days ($30), 30 days ($50), and 90 days ($125)
- Personal Insurance - trekking, accident, medical, emergency evacuation, heli rescue, and all other types of insurance
- International airfares to and from your country
- Any type of drinks and beverages which include soft drinks, hot drinks, cold drinks, alcoholic drinks, mineral water, bottled water, tea, hot beverages, tea, ice cream, biscuits, cookies and others refreshment.
- Tea House/Lodge facilities and services: Hot shower, Wi-Fi / Internet available, charging facility for your electronic devices such as power bank, mobiles, cameras and so on, wash service, available as per the need of the tourist.
- Climbing guides and Sherpa fee
- Tips: Guide and Porter
- Excess baggage charge on Lukla flights (each additional charge for carrying more than 10 kg weight: $1 to $5 USD per kg)
If anyone returns from the trek earlier than the mentioned dates, all the charges such as return flight fare and any other expenses incurred, including hotels, teahouse room and meal fare, etc., will not be refunded, as we’ve already made necessary payments as per the fixed itinerary. Additionally, expenses should be borne by you only.
ISLAND PEAK CLIMBING Departures
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Route Map
Packing List and Essential Gear for Island Peak Climbing
This gear list includes items needed for this trek: clothing, footwear, sleeping, trekking and personal equipment as well. Packing light is essential. Select clothing and equipment that are lightweight and packable. Bring along sufficient clothing to cover a variety of eventualities. The sudden change of weather demands layering and three layers will suit the situation well. Avoid cotton or fabrics which do not retain warmth when cool. Durable comfortable wool (or verified fabrics) that breathed and wicked sweat is essential for added comfort.
Complimentary water will be provided on the trek as well as a windproof duffle bag while on trek (carried by the porters); the duffle bag is yours to take home at the end of the trek. Any non-trekking items you carry can be left at our office in Kathmandu to be collected upon your return.
Gear Provided directly by Sherpa Expedition and Trekking
- Sherpa Expedition and Trekking provide all of technical group climbing gear and hardware and expedition items. The entire gear, such as the following and listed below:
- Base camp tents, dining tents, kitchen gear, toilet tents
- Technical fixed ropes and climbing ropes
- We will set high-standard dry-treated fixed ropes and will provide dynamic climbing ropes for glacier crossing and climbing purposes as used for the group.
- Climbing safety equipment: Snow bars, snow sticks, ice screws and ice hammers, with ice protection
- Group first aid kits with emergency communication
- Satellite phone, pulse oximeter for oxygen monitor to each climber daily.
- Free expedition kit bag for each climber.
- Company trekking T-shirt and drinking purified water.
Technical Climbing Gear and Footwear (Personal or Rental)
- High altitude double mountaineering boots or other B2 and B3 rating boots.
- Crampons – with metal crampons and step-in system – 12 points
- Climbing ice axe with a leash – standard mountaineering style
- Adjustable mountaineering harness – for ice clip or the attachment point to the fixed ropes, has gear loops
- Climbing helmet – light hard shell type.
- Jumar (handled ascent device) and belay rappelling device (figure 8 or ATC device)
- Ice protection - (optional for this expedition): snow bars, ice ax, snow sticks.
- 2 locking HMS karabiner, 2 x non-locking karabiners, and 2 x 120 cm Dyneema slings.
Layered Clothing System
- Base-layer Top: Cotton-free synthetic or merino wool (x 2-3 tops and bottoms); moisture-wicking and helps with drying.
- Insulation / Midlayer: Fleece jacket / grid-fleece sweater / synthetic lightweight jacket.
- Outer-shell: Waterproof- breathable and windproof hardshell jacket and pants ( Gore Tex equivalent etc).
- Heavy down-insulation: Exped down jacket -20 to -30 C.
- Trekking Pants and Top: Take 2 lightweight, quick-dry trek pants and three moisture-wicking tops.
- Gloves: Thin underglace / softshell glove, with leather palm medium/weight / expedition heavyweight insulated climb mitten.
- Headwear: Warm hat; wool or fleece beanie, sunhat; sun-shield, Buff / Neckgaitor / Sunglasses. Categories 4 glacier glasses with side-shields.
Trekking Footwear and Accessories
- Hiking boot and camp shoes – 1 pair warm, waterproof, sturdy, well-broken-in hiking boots, 1 pair lightweight running shoes or sandals for rest at camp and trek.
- 4 pairs of trekker's/hiking socks - Wool or Wool blend style.
- 1 pair sturdy waterproof and breathable gaiters - Designed to keep snow, dust, and grit out of your boots.
Personal Sleeping and Trekking Equipment
- 1 Sleeping bags ( Rated from -20C to -30C with a waterproof cover). - It must be a '4 season' bag.
- Day-pack: 30 to 40 Litre capacity day pack with a cover to carry camera and personal things for day-to-day walking.
- Trekking poles: adjustable poles - collapsible carbon or aluminum trek poles with snow baskets
- Power bank and head lamp with spare batteries.
Health, Hygiene, and Personal Essentials
- Two 1-liter water bottles: 'Nalgene-style '- capable of containing boiling water, one in an insulated bottle cover, and another as a backup/carry option.
- Sun and Skin Care: SP50+ full spectrum sunscreen, high SPF lip balm, healing face moisturizer.
- Personal First Aid Prescriptions: Personal medications, Altitude sickness meds (Diamox), Blister pads (Compeed), Painkiller (ibuprofen), Re-hydration tablets
- Toiletries: 100% quick dry micro fiber towel, bio-degradable wet wipes, Hand sanitizer, Tooth clean Kit Multi-Tool/ Pocket Knife.
Gallery of ISLAND PEAK CLIMBING
Best Time for Island Peak Climbing
The best season for Island Peak Climbing is during spring (April-May) and autumn (Oct-Nov), as we can expect the best and most stable weather. The season has good visibility, with best conditions in the upper headwall with perfect snow.
Autumn (October – November)
Autumn is the best climbing season in the Khumbu region. It has a crystal clear sky, least rainfall and stable high altitude snowpack and warm days on the upper slopes (-5°C to 10°C).
Spring (April – May)
Spring is the second best climbing season for Island Peak as it has reasonable temperatures, increasing daylight hours and flourishing rhododendrons along the trail at lower altitudes and pleasant wind on the 6,189m summit ridge.
Winter (December – February)
Winter is a challenging season for Island Peak Climbing due to freezing temperatures (on the summit it's below -25°C), high winds, increased snowfall, ice formations on the headwall, as well as avalanche risks and blocked passes.
Monsoon (June – August)
Monsoon season has heavy rainfall, clouds, slippery mud tracks, leeches at low altitude, high avalanche risk along the Imja Glacier and frequent cancelled flights to Lukla.
Kathmandu to Lukla Flight
All air services to the Everest region of Nepal only fly from Lukla Tenzing-Hillary Airport. All the services here in Lukla air operate under the control of Nepal Civil Aviation Authority (CAAN) according to the season.
Lukla during peak treks becomes very crowded hence flights don't fly to Lukla directly from Kathmandu (runway is too busy there) but instead they take off from Manthali Airport at Ramechhap which takes 4-5 hours (132km/usually an overnight drive away).
The flight route goes along plains below mountains and leaves from Kathmandu at around 1.00 am then a short 20-25min flight reaches Lukla.
For the remainder of the year flights leave on time from Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport to Lukla in 30-35 minutes direct flight. Lukla's tiny air-strip served by Twin Otter aircraft in the control of Visual Flight Rules, (which is weather dependent) means that if conditions in Lukla or for example high wind/fog over a particular flight path in winter or monsoon, this leads to cancellations and delays and usually you must build buffer days into your schedule.
Permits Required for Island Peak Climb
A total of three permits are required by climbers for Island Peak Climbing. In autumn and spring (peak trekking seasons) each individual climber must have an NMA permit from a licensed trekking agency for $370 USD.
Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) Climbing Permit
We secure and process your individual permits with the NMA for island peak (Imja Tse), rates are available seasonally and charged at; $250 USD per person (Spring; Mar-May), $125 USD per person (Fall; Sep-Nov), $70 USD per person (Winter/Summer; Dec-Feb / Jun-Aug).
Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
The foreigner climber needs an environmental permit from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation; costs NRs. 3,000 (about $23) plus 13% VAT per person, for protected zone permits.
Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit
The local government charges a regionally-based entry tax to non-native trekkers of NPR 3,000 ($23 USD). This tax is usually collected either at the local entry point checkpoint to the region (Lukla or Monjo), which aids the development of infrastructure and trails in the region.
Island Peak Altitude and Acclimatization
Altitude and its Impact
Island Peak rises to an elevation of 6,189 meters and thus the body is at 47% less of the actual oxygen pressure from sea level. Failure to acclimatize sufficiently after ascending over 3,000 meters would likely result in the contraction of AMS, HAPE and HACE conditions and severely reduce your physical capability and co-ordination.
Acclimatization Strategy
The total distance, which includes a return trip, of the trekking and climbing journey to Island Peak is going to be approximately 120-140 kilometers from Lukla. The lengths of certain portions of the daily trekking and climbing paths across challenging mountain terrains, moraines or glacier terrains will be around 10-15 kilometers a day in the course of a journey lasting between 14 and 17 days.
Island Peak Distance
During your climbing and trekking journey around Island Peak, the total journey from Lukla will be around 120-140 km. The parts of the trekking and climbing that go over steep vertical areas, moraine, or glacial terrain, etc. will be about 10-15 km a day if you are doing a 14-17-day climbing trip.
Island Peak Climbing Difficulty
The Island Peak is graded a "Alpine PD+ (Peu Difficile)"; whereby an extensive trek and the basic amount of mountaineering is included in this expedition. Hence the trekkers should expect to cover more than one hour of distance walking on an open glacier (using the crampons to reach the headwall where by an open ascent, 100 meters high headwall, forty to fifty degree angle will have to be climbed while crossing through the fixed lines. Furthermore you will be utilizing jumar and to reach an Alpine top and traverse a narrow alpine top.
Is Island Peak Climbing Suitable for Beginners?
Island Peak is meant for the determined beginners who are in excellent cardio condition and have some prior experience of high altitude trekking and training in the use of crampons, harnesses and jumar systems. Climbers would require no prior mountaineering skills, but pre-climb basic mountaineering course in Alpine skill at Base Camp with qualified Sherpa guides would be mandatory.
Preparation and Safety Measures for Island Peak Climbing
Physical Fitness
Climbers should begin their specialty training 3-6 months before their expedition. Their regimen should be geared towards endurance, leg strength, and core conditioning to ensure a body that’s ready for the long days in order to summit the itinerary-based summit push within a 10-12 day window. The training should include weighted stair climbing, long distance runs, intervals, weighted backpacks hikes, among others.
Diet and Hydration
Climbers will require a daily calorie intake between 4,000 and 5,000 calories per day. To avoid energy deprivation and meet caloric needs, foods will consist of high carb foods, protein sources and hot soups. Climbers should hydrate in excess of four or five liters per day with purified water and ensure that the fluids ingested will help them fight against dehydration and maintain blood volume, therefore helping against high altitude diseases.
Essential Documents
The required documents and materials to submit, which should be valid at least for six months: A valid passport; six passport photos; a valid insurance plan with provision to evacuation up to 6500m; a current valid Nepal visa; climbing permit from Nepal Mountaineering Association; entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park.
First Aid Kit and Medicines
A complete list of first-aid kits and medicine: Broad-spectrum antibiotics, acetazolamide (Diamox to speed acclimatization to higher altitudes), a pain relief drug - ibuprofen, anti-diarrhea drug, blister dressings, sterile bandages, rehydration fluids, pulse oximeter and personal medicines prescribed and used by the applicant while travelling at higher altitudes.
Essential Information
Visa
Foreign nationals can acquire Nepali tourist visas at Tribhuvan International Airport Upon arrival as well as make a request on the web just before your journey. The cost to obtain a Nepal Tourist Visa $30 for 15 days /$50 for a 30 days / $125 for 90 days. It can be paid with Major Credit Cards or Cash.
Insurance
Climbers must ensure they have travel insurance that covers all aspects of their expedition including emergency helicopter evacuation up to 6,500 meters, search and rescue operations, medical expenses as well as trip cancellation. Standard travel policies do not cover any technical mountaineering over 4,000 meters. This means having a specialized policy which provides complete coverage at high altitude will be essential if you want to register on this page.
Distance
A total distance covered by this climbing itinerary from Kathmandu up to Imja Tse's peak and down from Lukla is about 130 km on an average and in every day your trek is at least 8km - 15km while taking an actual trekking expedition, climbing paths, river valleys, moraines, the high altitude pass and ridge etc.
Duration
A complete trekking up to Imja Tse peak and back journey from Kathmandu is between 16 to 19 days long. Out of that, usually 12-14 days will be active travelling days whereas you will acclimatise during this trek and 1 day of technical training will be conducted at Base Camp and couple of weather days reserved in case needed during pushing to the summit.
Transportation
Transportation includes 35 minutes or 20 minutes flight via STOL aircraft from Kathmandu or from Ramechhap Airport at the altitude of 1,450m, which takes you to Tenzing-Hillary Airport Lukla. Vehicle transport will transfer visitors to hotels and then directly to the airport and the rest of the way from Lukla trekkers pack bags (personal clothing and gear equipment) is carried by yaks/ porters and pack animals. Guide and Porter
As per Nepal mountaineering guidelines all expeditions should have certified mountain guides either IFMGA or NMA certifications. The mountain guide responsible for leading an expedition will be fully engaged with safety assurance for each visitor, fixed rope and emergency situation in the expedition. One porter will carry the weight limit up to 15 to 20 kg.
Weather Condition
Generally April and May as spring season and Oct and Nov as autumn season are favorable seasons for mountain climbing in Nepal. There is a crystal clear view between morning hours until late afternoon in spring and autumn which usually is a good season for trekking. At the summit the average temp range is from -10 Deg C to -20 Deg C so accordingly climbers have to wear full layers of warm clothes, wind stopper shells jacket and professional mountaineering boots and gear for a high mountain ascent.
Accommodation
The houses located down in low elevations are equipped with two bed double-shared, well set dining hall with a fireplace to rest the day end. At elevation Base Camp (5,100m) and High Camp (5,600m) will contain a three season tent, with all meals provided and a well functioning toilet.
Food and Water
Local tea houses offer a warm, cosy atmosphere with a meal of Dal Bhat and, you can also choose noodles, pasta, eggs and porridge for the morning or evening meal. We insist all visitors drink boiled, treated with iodine/chlorine tablets or purified by fine-tuned membrane filtering – no streams and not plastic bottle water for any reason due.
Personal Expenses
There are a few costs travelers may encounter which we consider to be "extras" for which we recommend setting aside from $300-$500 USD (NPR), the amount of which varies. Items such as electronic charging (USD $2-$5 per full charge), hot showers ($3-$6 each), WiFi connections, beverage bottle drinks, snacks and tip-out are not included in the package price.
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FAQS Related to ISLAND PEAK CLIMBING
General Information
Island Peak is rated PD+ (Slightly Difficult). Although for most of the walk the ascent is non-technical, the summit charge demands use of ice climbing gear like crampons and ice axes and jumar ascenders and traversing a steep 100 meter headwall glacier, fixed rope route that goes upwards on a headwall.
It mostly is a 10-12 hour round-trip. The climbers generally board from High Camp around 1:00 AM or 2:00 AM intending to summit by dawn and come down by the afternoon safely before strong winds come in.
Clearly, combining Island Peak with Everest Base Camp is one of the most popular routes among people who come. Visits to EBC (5,364m) and Kala Patthar (5,545m), in fact, are excellent high-altitude acclimatization and a lot boost your opportunity of successfully summiting Island Peak.
Technically Island Peak (6,189m) is tougher than Mera Peak (6,476m), the climb consists of steep fixed-rope sections and getting through the glaciers but for Mera you mostly have a non-technical glacier walk up which although takes a physical effort but is technically very easy.
Preparation and Fitness
Good aerobic capacity and leg strength is required. Training can take the form of 3-6 months of intensive aerobic work (loaded pack, stair climbing, trail running, cycling) plus strength conditioning in the form of core work.
No previous experience of technical climbing is necessary, as basic rope techniques will be taught together with crampon technique at base camp. However strong experience of high altitude multi day trekking above 4,000m would be highly recommended.
Double mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, climbing harness, helmet, jumar ascender, figure 8 descender and locking carabiners plus category 4 glacier sunglasses are required. Gear is available to rent in Kathmandu or Chhukung.
Yes, training by carrying a weighted pack (10-15 kg) up slopes or stair masters is a very good way to replicate trail condition and to strengthen shoulders, back and legs.
Health and Safety
The risk for altitude sickness increases as we move beyond an altitude of 3,000 meters. Since our peak is reached at an altitude of 6,189 meters, there’s going to be a considerable drop in oxygen levels. So, you need to gradually get yourself acclimatized along with good hydration. Hence, getting your day-by-day check-up on your physical condition shall always remain a health factor.
It is important to ascend steadily with adequate rest days built into the schedule, drink approximately 4-5 litres of fluids each day, eat carbohydrate based meals, avoid all forms of alcohol, and trek to high and sleep low on acclimatisation days.
It is possible to take Diamox to potentially reduce the time that it takes to acclimatise, and to help minimise moderate AMS symptoms, but it is vital that you consult your doctor prior to your trip regarding dosage and whether any side effects will affect your body and state of health.
If you suffer any more advanced symptoms such as headache that persists and nausea or loss of balance, you must inform your guide as immediate descent is the only cure for severe altitude sickness.
Permits
No, it’s against the law to climb in Nepal without permits. You will need an NMA Island Peak permit, an entrance permit for the Sagarmatha National Park and entry permits for the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu region in the vicinity of Island Peak before summiting.
No. It’s necessary to have Nepalese government permits for climbing peaks apply for via and be arranged by a registered local Nepalese trekking agency. You will not get a climbing permit for Island Peak on your own or without an agency arrangement.
Certainly, Nationals of SAARC is provided with a concessional rate of entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park and local Khumbu municipal fee. Besides, normal NMA climbing permit royalties are applicable to foreigners equally in any season.
Per Nepal government rules: for only 16 years or older climbers are issued mountain climbing permits. There is no maximum age. However, a much higher age limit is allowed if applicants undergo rigorous medical fitness tests and have appropriate high-altitude mountaineering experience.
Insurance and Visa
The on-arrival tourist visa at the Kathmandu airport will cost you approximately $30 for a 15-day visa, $50 for a 30-day visa, and $125 for a 90-day visa, to be paid in commonly traded international currencies.
Yes, you absolutely need specialized mountaineering travel insurance. The regular travel policies often deny coverage at such altitudes for specialized alpine climbing activities like it applies to Island Peak.
Your insurance needs to include emergency, medical and helicopter evacuation to a minimum height of 6,500 metres in your policy, so as to include the summit elevation of 6,189 metres for Island Peak.
An evacuation helicopter is not included as part of an automatic evacuation coverage on a basic policy. You have to add on mountaineering coverage that includes emergency air ambulance and search and rescue in remote, high-altitude Himalayan countries.
Guides and Support
Yes, Nepal government regulations oblige all expeditions for summit climbing to be accompanied by a professionally certified Nepal government trekking/mountaineering licensed guide. A guide and a professional climbing Sherpa are essential for route safety, fixing new paths and passes, as well as for proper management and handling of emergencies over the glaciers and rocks during an expedition.
For increased safety, our typical climbing guide to client ratio on summit day is 1:3 or 1:4. Larger groups also get additional skilled assistant Sherpa guides.
Yes, guides carry complete high altitude first aid kits, pulse oximeters for checking health each morning, and either medical oxygen, PACs (portable altitude chambers) or both during the high camp segment.
Accommodation
During the trekking section of the tour, you will be in good standard local family run lodges known as tea houses on twin sharing basis. These places are more basic but very comfy with shared facilities and a heated common room for dining.
No, tea houses are available up to Chhukung. At Island Peak Base Camp (5200m) and High Camp (5600m) at Island Peak, our crew pitch safe and hygienic durable 4 season high altitude camping tents that we provide on tent service.
Yes, we arrange an exclusive and portable and ecologically friendly toilet tent for you, that our trek crew pitches up for your hygiene in Base Camp and all wastes are properly disposed of following strict Sagarmatha National Park rule and LNT environmental guidelines.
Yes, our client enjoys their food within a well designed, weatherproof dome dining tent with all tables, portable chairs and a lighting inside. This luxury dining tent at Base Camp, where our kitchen team serves hot, freshly cooked hot meals and various hot beverages.
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