MANASLU EXPEDITION
MANASLU EXPEDITION
“Mountain of the Spirit” The meaning of Manaslu in Sanskrit is enough to tempt the true adventurous spirit in you to climb this magnificent peak. Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul". At 8,163m (26,781ft) above sea level, Mt. Manaslu is the 8th highest in the world located in the Mansiri Himal, a small but high subrange of the Himalayas in north central Nepal about 100km north west of Kathmandu. This is a serious climbing expedition and is for those climbers with previous high altitude climbs under their belt. It is a technical climb, physically demanding and can be compared with an ascent of neighboring Cho Oyu (8,188m), or Shishapangma (8,027m).
The Mansiri range is also referred to as the Manaslu Himal or the Gurkha Massif. Manaslu Himal also contains Himalchuli (7,893m/25,896ft and Ngadi Chuli (7,871m/25,823ft) both falling within the top 20 highest peaks in the world. Manaslu is 7,000m/23,000ft above the Marsyangdi Valley floor adding to its prominence on the skyline. It is 64km east of Mt. Annapurna.
There is a saying attributed to Ralph Waldo Emerson: “It’s the not the destination, it's the journey”. This is true of this expedition for without the struggle to reach the summit you may not appreciate the adrenalin rush and thrill once you reach there. Your journey begins at Besisahar (760m) and then follows the trail to Dharapani (1860m), Tilje (2300m), Bhimthang (3720m) where we stop for a rest and acclimatization day. Leaving Bhimthang we head to Samdo (3872m) via Larke Pass (5160m), Samagaun (3541m) and on to Manaslu Base Camp (4700m). We will spend around 20 days here where we will rehearse and prepare for the assault on the summit. We will check and re-check our equipment and make several higher climbs and returns to base camp in order to better acclimatize.
After reaching the summit and soaking in the views of the surrounding giant peaks we will head back to Base Camp and continue back to Samagaun (3541m), Namrung (2670m) , Philim (1606m), Machha Khola (883m) and Arughat (606m) from where we drive back to Kathmandu.
There are several routes to take to climb to the summit from Manaslu Base Camp (4,700m), but most attempt it coming from the direction of Samagaun after trekking along the Budhi Gandaki Valley and then head up the north-east ridge. There are a number of snowy slopes and an arête to cross before reaching the summit. An arête can be described as a narrow ridge or saddle. After this there is a steep climb to the summit from where you will undoubtedly have some of the most stunning views imaginable of the Himalayas.
The most common problem of climbing these peaks can be altitude sickness, hence the reason for taking time along the trail leading to Base Camp, and from Base Camp to repeatedly climb and ascend to avoid any complications. We have several days set aside in the event the weather is unsuitable for the ascent to the summit.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking recommends that you have some serious climbing experience before attempting this climb. A couple of 6000m ascents would be advisable, as there is ice sheets and snow to traverse on your way to the summit. It is also advisable that you have experience in the use of crampons and the use of fixed lines. Most of all you will need the endurance and will that climbers need to persevere and keep climbing despite the physical discomfort. The ideal time to make this climb is in March, April or October and November when the snow is still compacted thus making it safer and easier to traverse.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking takes care of everything, from permits, fees and all accommodation along the trail. Your safety and enjoyment are always our main concern. After more than 40 years in the trekking and climbing business we understand the difference between a good experience and a great experience. Our reputation speaks for itself.
ITINERARY
Day 1 : Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,400m)
Day 2 : Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition briefing and preparing
Day 3 : Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar (760m)
Day 4 : Trek from Besisahar to Dharapani (1,860)
Day 5 : Trek from Dharapani to Tilije (2,300m)
Day 6 : Trek from Tilije to Bhimthang (3,720m)
Day 7 : Acclimatization at Bhimthang (rest day)
Day 8 : Trek from Bhimthan to Samdo (3,872m) via Larke Pass(5,160m)
Day 9 : Trek from Samdo to Sama Gaun (3,541m)
Day 10 : Trek from Sama Gaun to Manaslu Basecamp (4700m)
Day 11 : Day 11-Day 32: Climbing Period [Base Camp - Manaslu Summit(8,163m)– Base Camp)
Day 33 : Trek from Manaslu Base Camp to Sama Gaun (3,541m)
Day 34 : Trek from Sama Gaun to Namrung (2,670m) to Arughat (Heli) if requested.
Day 35 : Trek from Namrung to Philim (1,606m)
Day 36 : Trek from Philim to Machha Khola (883m)
Day 37 : Trek from Machha Khola to Arughat (606m)
Day 38 : Drive from Arughat to Kathmandu & transfer to the Hotel
Day 39 : Leisure Day in Kathmandu
Day 40 : Transfer to International Airport for final departure
SERVICES
Full Board Service Includes
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM international airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at KTM international airport by Sherpa Expedition and Trekking during your arrival and departure.
- 4-night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on a B&B basis.
- Experienced and government-licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide during the trekking and climbing period.
- An appropriate number of porters during the trekking period.
- Land transportation from Kathmandu-Arughat-Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
- Sherpa Expedition and Trekking kitchen tent, storage tent, dining tent, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs and cooking utensils for base camp.
- Common climbing equipment such as Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar.
- 3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee.
- Accommodation at hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camps during the trekking period.
- All camping accommodation for members and staff during the trekking and climbing period. You will be sharing sleeping quarters with one other member.
- All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the climbing period.
- 60kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules.
- Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company.
- Services of chef and kitchen assistant at advance base camp.
- Trekking Permit (Manaslu Conservation Park entry fee).
- TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Manaslu restricted area trekking permit during the expedition period.
- Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Manaslu.
- Nepalese Government Royalty.
- One experienced, trained, government licensed and 3-time summiteer climbing guide (Sherpa) per person.
- All wages, equipment, medical and accident insurances for all involved staffs during the trekking and climbing period.
- Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff.
- Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at base camp.
- Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, kitchen assistant and government liaison officer.
- First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
- Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients with a cost of $3USD per minute.
- Appropriate high altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above as required.
- Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
- The heater will be provided at the base camp for the dining tent.
- Emergency oxygen mask and regulator provided upon request of the client with requirement appropriate charge.
- Each client will have an individual tent available in the Manaslu advanced base camp.
- Solar panel for light and electronics charging.
- All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Icefall charges.
- Gamow Bags (Portable hyperbaric chambers) for high altitude sickness.
- 2 Bottles (8L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided for each member.
- The latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators will be provided.
- We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing and insurance.
- Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties.
- EPI cooking gas and stove will be provided in camp one, three and South Col for cooking food.
- The generator will be providing to back-up the lighting in base camp.
- Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules.
- Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal.
- Complete pre-departure information.
- Flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services.
- Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Sherpa Expedition and Trekking special gift
Full Board Service Excludes
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner).
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner.
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses.
- Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear.
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations, etc.
- Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged.
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
- Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Walkie-talkies
- Filming permit (if you have a special camera).
- Personal climbing gear.
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment.
- Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips.
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival).
- Any extra services, products, offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
- Any other item not included in the cost includes section.
EQUIPMENTS
Travel Documents
- Valid Passport
- Credit Cards
- Pp Size Photo (4 Pieces)
- Insurance Paper And Contact Address.
- Family Members / Company’s Contact Address
Foot Wear
- Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet (Summit Shoe)
- Normal Socks (5-6 Pairs)
- Summit Socks (2 Pairs)
- Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)
- Camp Booties (1 Pair)
- Basecamp Slipper (1 Pair)
Upper Body
- Light Weight Top / Thermo Coat (2-3 Layers)
- Mid Weight Top (2-3 Layers)
- Heavy Weight Top (2 Layers)
- Fleece Jacket (1)
- Gore Text Jacket (1)
- Down Jacket (1)
- Wind Proof Jacket
- Cotton T-Shirt For Base Camp. (2-3)
Lower Body
- Light Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Under Wear (5-7 Pairs)
- Mid Weight Long Under Pants (2-3 Pairs)
- Heavy Weight Long Under Wear
- Gore Text Pant. (1)
- Down Pants. (1)
- Water Proof Pant. (1)
Head
- Sun Cap
- Desert Cap
- Balaclava
- Fleece Hat
- Neck Gaiter (2-3)
Hands
- Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
- Wind Stopper Fleece Gloves
- Heavy Gloves (Mitten)
- Summit Gloves
Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping Bag - 20 Degree Celsius (For Base Camp)
- Down Sleeping Bag - 20 To -40 Degree Celsius (Extreme Comfort)
- Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)
- Thermarest Mattress (Inflatable)
Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Helmet
- Down Suit (Kailas / Marmot / Mountain
- Hardware / North Face / Millet )
- Crampons (Fit with Boot)
- Ice Axe
- Harness
- Atc Guide
- Jummer / Ascender
- Lock Carabiner (3)
- Unlock Carabiner (3)
- Tape Slings (2)
- Prusik Loops (1)
- Snow Goggle
- Head Light (4 Pairs Rechargeable Batteries Recommended)
- Satellite Phone
- Hand Warmer (If Possible)
Bag Packs
- Rucksacks 45L - 55L
- Duffle Bag 90 L -120 L (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Large (2 Pieces)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks Small (2 Pieces)
Sun Stuffs
- Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream -50 (Spf)
- Lip Guard -20 / -50 (Spf)
- Sun Glasses (UV Protection)
- Glaciers Glasses (UV Protection)
Toiletries
- Hand Disinfectant
- Wet Tissue
- Toothpaste
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Shampoo
- Garbage Bag
Eating & Drinking
- Water Bottle (2)
- Thermos
- Mug
- Spoon/ Fork
- Bowl
Medical
- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous
- Walking Stick
- Pocket Knife (Swiss)
- Umbrella / Rain Coat
GOOD TO KNOW
What level of experience is required?
To join the Peak climb you should have a broad mountaineering background.
All Sherpa Expedition & Trekking staff is qualified, licensed and experienced climbers.
What are the climate and best times for climbing in Nepal?
Nepal has four seasons, for example, autumn (Sept. Oct. Nov.), winter (Dec. Jan. Feb.) spring (March, April, and May) and storm (June, July, and Aug.). During the fall season, the evenings are cold in the mountains however the splendid sun makes for lovely daytime temperatures. At higher elevations temperature extend from about 20°C down to maybe - 10°C around evening time. Morning is typically clear, and after that mists develop during the evening, vanishing during the evening to uncover staggering starry skies.
Throughout the winter season, high passes, particularly the Thorong-La pass, Dhaulagiri circuit, Tilicho (Musukanta Pass) in Annapurna trekking, Chola Pass, Renjo La Pass, Khongma La Pass, Amalaptse Pass, Rolwaling Pass, Serpent col in Everest region, Lauribina Pass, Ganja Pass, Gosainkunda in Langtang, Larky Pass in Manaslu, are generally shut. Short and simple trek in center slopes is the best on this time. Heavy snow during January, February, and March makes the trails unsafe.
The best time for trekking and climbing in Nepal is spring (March, April, and May) and in September, October and November.. You should be prepared for sudden changes in the weather, hence the need to be prepared.
Climbing Grades:
Evaluation A – "Moderate"
Evaluation B - "Specialized"
Evaluation C – "Specialized Plus"
Evaluation D – "Extreme climbing"
What sort of accommodation during the trek and climb?
Accommodation at lower altitudes is in a guest house, tea house or hotel. At higher altitudes tents are provided.
Meals during the trek & climb.
In Kathmandu your hotel includes breakfast, whereas all meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided during the trek. Staple foods of mountain regions are potatoes, oats, buckwheat, Sherpa stew and Tibetan bread. Sherpas’ started farming potatoes when the first seeds were introduced to the region in the early 90s. There is a limited choice of food at higher elevations and except many potato dishes. Potatoes are high in carbohydrates – an excellent source of energy needed at high altitudes..
Accidents and rescue incidents.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is set up for any crisis and your guides are experienced in first aid. In extreme emergencies a helicopter rescue is available
Personal insurance is necessary before heading on this expedition.
Emergency telephone numbers in Nepal.
For calling from outside Nepal you need to dial international 00+ and country code 977 and then the area code e.g. for Kathmandu it is 1. To call Sherpa Xpedition & Trekking dial 00+ 977 986 600 7038
The cost of the NMA Peak Climbing Royalty.
The climbing expenses structure of NMA:
"A" Peaks
For up to seven individuals USD 500
For each extra person up to 12 USD 100 per person
Group "B" Peaks
1-4 Persons USD 350
5-8 Persons USD 350 plus an extra USD 40 per person.
9-12 Persons 510.00 in addition to 25.00 (Per individual)
Note: The maximum number of individuals in the group is 12.
Trash store for every one of the 33 NMA designated peaks.
USD 250 to NMA
Mountaineering Fees
Per person in US Dollar
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5500, Winter/Summer 2750
Everest Other Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 1800, Autumn Season 900, Winter/Summer 450
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 600, Autumn Season 300, Winter/Summer 150
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 500, Autumn Season 250, Winter/Summer 125
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 200, Winter/Summer 100
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 400, Winter/Summer 200
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 250, Autumn Season 125, Winter/Summer 70
The arrangement of royalty for outside climbers will become effective from 1 January 2015 (B.S. 20171/09/17)
Royalty for Nepalese climber per person in Nepalese rupees.
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 75000, Autumn Season 37500, Winter/Summer 18250
Everest Other Route Spring Season 60000, Autumn Season 30000, Winter/Summer 15000
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 10000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 4000, Winter/Summer 2000
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 6000, Autumn Season 3000, Winter/Summer 1500
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 5000, Autumn Season 2500, Winter/Summer 1250
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 8000, Winter/Summer 4000
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 4000, Autumn Season 2000, Winter/Summer 1000
Royalty for Nepalese climbers will happen from 13 February 2014 (B.S. 20170/11/01).
The Mountaineering Royalty has been completely postponed to the mountains arranged in the Mid Western and Far Western Development Region of Nepal for a long time affecting from 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018).
Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal has expected that the opportune change in Royalty for mountaineering in Nepal will be the achievement for the advancement of the Nepalese Mountaineering Sector around the globe.
As per the choice of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the protection sum for Sardar, mountain guide and high height walker is fixed as Rs 15 lakhs. Also, therapeutic protection is fixed as Rs 4 lakhs.
The maximum no. of individuals in a group is 15.
What documents do we require for Permit?
International ID
Two photographs – passport-style less than six months old.
Occupation.
Home address.
Insurance policy copy
Mountaineering experience.
Remember – The better prepared – the more enjoyable your Expedition!
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